Petit Paris

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

'Le respect de la tradition Française' is the strapline to this lively bistro, whose Grassmarket headquarters has plied a successful trade for a decade, with a further branch opening on Queensferry Street in 2005. While the décor of blue, white and red tablecloths, strings of garlic and brightly coloured vintage French posters resembles a year-round Bastille Day celebration, the menu delivers on its promise of classic French cuisine, simply but attractively presented using local produce. Among the starters, it's difficult to see past the traditional French black pudding, its crispy exterior giving way to warm, crumbly layers with no greasy aftertaste. The rabbit terrine, meanwhile, is a richly textured cold pâté, the strong flavour offset by sweet onion jam and assorted pickles. The main course coq au vin, which arrives in a traditional copper pot, is tender and light on the stomach and served with a rich red wine sauce, while juicy roast rack of lamb is complemented by a piquant mustard and parsley crust. Accompaniments are similarly unfussy: sautéed potatoes are plump and firm, while the vegetables are fresh and crunchy. Both the West End and Grassmarket branches offer an inviting one-course lunch plus coffee for £6.90, while the two-course set lunch or pre-theatre offer for £9.90 is equally appealing at this level of quality.

• High point: The traditional boudin noir
• Low point: The décor is a little on the busy side