Charcoals

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

This little joint is slap bang in the middle of town – so much so it’s easy to miss amid the bright lights of newsagents and chain pubs. It’s worth keeping your eye out for Charcoals, though, as since it opened in 2004 it has built a modest yet solid reputation for fresh, confidently cooked Punjabi food and friendly service. The restaurant sits next door to the Charcoals takeaway which serves city centre crowds after hours, but recent renovation means sit-in diners don’t need to tramp through it to get to their table. Once inside, the menu offers ‘Glaswegian’ standards: Jaipuris, kormas and bhoonas – more interesting, however, are the house specialities and the takallufaat (from the grill). Marinated lamp chops are little char-grilled portions of joy, served alongside subtle pulau and aloo paratha – light layers of bread, potato and spinach baked in the tandoor. The spices are well considered, too – chicken chilli fry is a lot more sophisticated than it sounds, its whole green chillies marrying a rich sauce without overpowering it. The staff are informative and flexible, and are happy to conjure up a veggie version of your choice on request. Simple and unaffected, Charcoals beats many top-dollar equivalents.

• High point: Succulent lamb chops
• Low point: Dining room slightly cramped for city shoppers

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