48 West Regent Street Bistro

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

48 West Regent Street Bistro, tucked under sister restaurant Bouzy Rouge Seafood & Grill, targets local office workers and shoppers during the day and a chic urban crowd at night. (The place also appeals to lunchtime and early evening diners thanks to a bargain set-price selection from noon to pre-theatre hours.) Dark chocolate woods, colour splashes on explosive prints and upbeat music foster a clubby vibe even on quieter occasions. The menu, while arguably less contemporary than that décor and atmosphere, is well complemented by a good value wine list. Although a starter of chunky Highland terrine is somewhat overwhelmed by an accompanying comp´te, the pea and mint risotto is fresh and creamy (if slightly at odds with the menu's Thai description). Main courses - whether a pleasantly gamey Perthshire lamb shank (with crispy Lyonnaise potatoes) or Shetland salmon in a ginger sauce - offer a nod towards regional sourcing. But, similar to the dessert choices, the options are generally safe and uncomplicated. After the kitchen closes, the bar remains open until 1am, allowing guests the chance to settle in and enjoy the attentions of staff, who seem confident in style-bar mode.

• High point: Good value lunchtime and pre-theatre
• Low point: Food needs higher billing