The Royal An Lochan

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2011 edition.

The sublime setting, tucked on the water by the Kyles of Bute in the postcard perfect village of Tighnabruaich, could not be more apposite for a grand seafood feast. Getting there is all part of the fun by yacht or on the single-track road that swings around the Kyles opening up a jaw dropping view at every turn. Thankfully the renamed The Royal an Lochan (previously just the An Lochan) does not let the sense of drama wane on the plate either with head chef Stephen McCombe intent on thorough local sourcing. On the dedicated seafood menu (there is also another menu with meatier choices) the starter plump king scallops are plucked fresh from Loch Fyne, while the massive langoustines are landed at Tarbert. The latter come heaped in a bowl with garlic butter. One disappointment is the surprisingly limited wine list with no crisp New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or French Sancerre to accompany the spot on seafood. That will seem a trifling complaint as you enjoy your coffee al fresco and skim stones down by the water’s edge.