An Lochan

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

To wander through Broomhill, at least up the Crow Road from Partick towards Anniesland, is to witness a dearth of dining out options. But amid the virtual desert this oasis emerges modestly amid of a row of shops. The former Café Royale, An Lochan is run by the McKie family – who have hotels of the same name in Tighnabruaich, Argyll and Tormaukin, Perthshire. The menu appears slightly flippant, using only first names to identify some suppliers. For example, Mary dives for scallops, while Winston provides the game. But in fact the owners do know these people personally. The à la carte choices tend to be quite concise, while a bargain set menu Tuesday to Thursday – and a £35 tasting menu on Friday and Saturday – offers additional options. A starter of scallops is gently seared and served with a swirl of cauliflower purée and dots of black pudding. Main courses might offer up a whole, plump sea bass, baked so that the flesh remains firm but falls gently from the bone. Monkfish can be a rustic affair: chunks wrapped in pancetta and served with an intense cassoulet with roughly (perhaps too roughly) chopped onions, beans, Buccleuch beef sausage and chorizo. For afters, a gooey chocolate fondant scores points over the gingerbread cake. The dining room, with whitewashed walls bearing fish-centric modern art, is elegant but still relaxed.

• High point: West coast seafood
• Low point: Rather dry gingerbread

The LIST Card A28

An Lochan

The following text has been provided by An Lochan.

What's on the menu today at An Lochan? That depends almost entirely on our highly skilled and fantastically dedicated team of local suppliers, who make it their mission to ensure that our guests eat nothing but the finest and freshest Scottish seafood and game.

Our restaurant in Glasgow's West End is roughly 80 miles from our hotel in Tighnabruaich; but, gastronomically speaking, they could hardly be closer to each other. All the delectable fresh seafood as well as most of the delicious meat and game cooked by Claire McKie and her team has come straight from our trusted suppliers in the Kyles of Bute. (And how many big city restaurants can say they're on first name terms with the people who catch their langoustines or stalk their venison?)

If you'll forgive us the terrible pun, it's a recipe for success. Within six months of opening, we were voted Best New Restaurant 2005 in the Scottish Chef Awards. And, ever since, discriminating Glasgow gourmets have been voting with their feet - by heading straight for An Lochan in Broomhill. .

Our chef Claire McKie trained at our hotel in Tighnabruaich before taking charge of the kitchen in Glasgow, where she leads a talented team of three.She has a passion for the finest natural ingredients. Her style of cooking is unfussy with clean tastes, not allowing anything to distract from the fantastic flavour of the ingredients.

Claire is fast acquiring an impressive reputation. She has won an AA rosette; is a member of the Master Chefs of Great Britain; and was recently nominated for best city chef by the Scottish Chefs Association. She's also on the judging panel for the Scottish Young Chefs award.

Go on, check out our menu - and give your eyeballs a preview of what we have in store for your tastebuds. Or, better still, book a table right now.

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