The Doll's House Restaurant

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

Although it's tucked in beside a pedestrian walkway in the heart of St Andrews, you can't miss the Doll's House, with its bright purple awnings sheltering a few tables nabbed by lucky diners in the summer - or braved by the hardy in less clement weather. Inside, this relaxed but well-run restaurant is split into two levels, which is pretty handy, considering this is a popular place for groups, particularly during graduation time. Starters might include smoked pigeon breast with Parma ham, walnuts and a red onion compote, or a feta, asparagus and artichoke tart with a cepe mushroom. For the main event, you could be tempted by grilled sea bass fillet on a spinach risotto with a chilli dressing, or pheasant breast with black pudding wrapped in smoked bacon with a redcurrant and juniper chutney sauce. Generally, it's pretty meat-heavy seasonal Scottish cuisine with a French accent. The kitchen is happy to cater to customers with particular dietary needs, and there's also a menu for children and teenagers. The wine list is organised according to characteristics, which is handy if you're not an expert but know what kind of thing you like.

• High point: Reliably high standards
• Low point: Dining alfresco is great till the haar rolls in