Viva

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

With its proximity to Glasgow's business district, Viva entertains a sizeable number of office workers for lunch. But its handsome, dark wood interior, with some big, soft leather booths, retains a relaxed atmosphere that, come evening and muted candle-light, make it seem especially well suited to social gatherings. Parties of up to 80 can be accommodated in the restaurant's back room, while couples can still enjoy an intimate evening towards the front. The menu – divided into pizza, pasta and meat dishes – is a bit basic but there are nevertheless plenty of choices. Succulent meatballs stuffed with garlic and parmesan arrive in a marinara sauce, as does a generous serving of fresh-tasting mussels – also available with a creamy garlic and white wine accompaniment. Among main courses, the seafood ravioli special has a rather disappointing sauce, but a dish of tender, pan-fried veal has more attention lavished upon it. The lean cutlets come served in a thick, pungent cream of mushrooms and white wine. Several varieties of focaccia are available and certainly worth sampling, with a flatbread of tomatoes, garlic and basil supplying a sweeter taste than usual. Eschewing the typical easy listening soundtrack in the toilets, a 'learn Italian' CD plays on a loop. All pizza and pasta dishes are available to takeaway.

• High point: Cheerful staff
• Low point: Menu lacks variety