The Guildford Arms

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Homey and welcoming from the moment you enter, the Guildford Arms is a place where you can easily imagine sinking a few real ales (there are ten on offer) or glasses of wine (they serve 18 by the glass). While the menu lists traditional pub staples, the specials board features some more adventurous offerings. Grilled goat's cheese crostini is well proportioned with generous, warm chunks of intensely flavoured cheese and a fresh, pesto-laced salsa. Smoked haddock fish-cake is delicately flavoured, though heavier on the potato than the fish, and topped with slightly rubbery mozzarella. Main courses are so generous that even the most ravenous will struggle to finish everything. A steak and ale pie includes tender chunks of tasty beef in a velvety gravy, topped with a disc of crisp, flaky, multi-layered pastry. An organic salmon fillet in sticky Cajun spiced sauce sits atop stir-fried baby sweetcorn, thinly ribboned carrots and peppers; a great mound of lemony, butter-scented rice completes the dish. Desserts are straightforward and delicious: the pear and almond flan has a thick frangipane base, buttery shortcrust pastry and a good smattering of flaked almonds. Diners can rub shoulders with pubgoers in the bar area, but it's also fun to people watch from the more contemporary upstairs gallery.

• High point: Fresh, quality ingredients
• Low point: A tad pricey for a pub meal