The Cristal, Mar Hall

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• Average price 2 courses: £29
• House wine: £17.50 per bottle

• High point: Luxurious setting
• Low point: Less-grand desserts
• Food served: Mon-Sun 7-10pm
• Private dining: 20--110 (7
• No. overnight rooms: 52
• Open since: 2004
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

It's only a short drive away, but the studied luxury of Mar Hall is far removed from gallus Glasgow. The Cristal is the fine-dining restaurant in this Gothic mansion-turned-exclusive hotel, open to visitors as well as residents. The setting is spectacular, with huge bay windows and a heavily-laden chandelier, although cream and gold décor and comfy armchairs reduce the formal chill. British tradition and international adventure define a menu overseen by lauded chef Jim Kerr. A starter of sea bass and halibut sashimi sees sesame and soy add vim to the raw fish. Carpaccio of sharp, juicy beetroot, meanwhile, is tempered by elderflower sorbet. Roast Goosnargh duck is a standout main, the lean, pink meat given a juicy tingle by blood orange. Pork belly also impresses, the slow-cooked meat yielding to gentle pressure and livened by a Far Eastern flourish of yuzu glaze, which gives it a citrus kick. Desserts do not reach the same standard, with marmalade ice-cream and orange caramel struggling to lighten stodgy gingerbread pudding, and viscous chocolate sauce the best part of nondescript praline cheesecake. The neighbouring grand hall opens for less formal lunches and luxury afternoon teas.