Darcy's

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Nestling among a plethora of bars, restaurants and luxury outlets in Princes Square, Darcy's occupies a quiet corner away from the hoards of frantic shoppers. Perhaps in a concerted effort to de-stress those seeking refuge from the bustling crowds, the bistro has been decorated in calming neutrals, with pastel flowers adorning every table and easy-listening music – including, at intervals, muzak – piped throughout its spacious interior. The menu is a fusion of various popular cuisines, its range indicative of a kitchen willing to take risks with flavours – for better or worse. Such gambles are a success with a dish like tiger prawn and halloumi skewers on a bed of noodles tossed in sesame oil and fresh mint. But others are more disappointing: chilli-dressed tiger prawns and char-grilled pineapple salad is rather sickly sweet. A well-executed garlicky cherry tomato and grilled goat's cheese bruschetta perhaps illustrates that the food here is at its best when flavours are kept simple.

• High point: Simpler dishes

• Low point: Service can be slow

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