Trans-Europe Café

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The décor of this café feels inspired by Kraftwerk's stylish aesthetic. Bauhaus pendant lamps shine on subtle taupe walls. Cream window blinds with mono-print drawings of the Trans-European Express may intrigue browsers in nearby art and curio shops. There's a funky, inclusive vibe, as well as a sense of being in Prague or Amsterdam (although reclaimed tartan seats from corporation buses prompt a nostalgic Glaswegian smile). A large wooden counter frames a semi-open kitchen and service is gracious and warm. The chef's pea, mint and crème fraîche soup might pass for haute cuisine, and the choice of sandwich ingredients is Euro-eclectic and includes home-made burgers. The chicken, pesto and mozzarella melt is perfectly satisfying, arriving with crisps, coleslaw and colourful salad. Bought-in chocolate cake is textbook squidgy with smooth Italian Aroma coffee. Wine and bottled beers are German, French or Italian. An evening bistro menu aspires to be rustic European country cooking and changes regularly. An electric piano is planned to be the focus of future musical evenings, cruising from Kraftwerk to Chopin and much in between.

• High point: Inclusive Euro aesthetic and warm service
• Low point: Open kitchen can be a bit smoky