Double Dutch

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

There's an appealing openness about Double Dutch. Windows take up the length of two walls, and the blonde wood of the furniture and floor brings a clean, bright feeling to the airy space. A small team works in an open kitchen, churning out unpretentious, if somewhat unprepossessing fare from a menu that's heavy on sandwiches, soups and chips. The food may not cut a culinary dash, but the honest atmosphere and cheery staff make this a popular lunchtime choice for students and lecturers. A starter of bruschetta is tasty and filling, topped with a zingy salsa, while a carrot and ginger soup, accompanied by chunks of home-made tomato bread, is spicy and wholesome. The home-made burger with fries lacks moisture, but the risotto is much more enjoyable, its parmesan stickiness balanced nicely with slippery leeks and sweet chunks of yam. Home baking is a matter of pride here, so a dry marmalade loaf is a bit of a disappointment, but the soft, spicy and sumptuous ginger cake is a hit. A decision by Edinburgh City Council to refuse Double Dutch a licence after 8pm means that evening meals are likely to be cut short. But the menu is available all day, and there is a great breakfast option before noon, incorporating goodies such as full fry-ups, eggs Benedict and French toast.

• High point: A summery vibe, even in winter
• Low point: Food a bit hit and miss