The Black Bull

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Well located on one of the main routes south from Edinburgh yet also in the heart of the Scottish Borders, this very popular 18th century coaching inn is situated in perfect walking and cycling country. So what better place to restore lost calories than with chef patron Margaret Rennie's wide range of replenishing dishes from soup and ham and cheese omelette to Border beef fillet, lamb and spinach curry? Eat in the cosy bar area or the slightly grander Georgian dining room. Blissfully smooth chicken liver and cognac pâté is well partnered with a soft, home-made red gooseberry jelly. Robust leek, gorgonzola and sun-dried tomato tart comes with a generous rocket salad. There are limited vegetarian choices, but roast pumpkin, spinach, pine nut, sun-dried tomato and ricotta crêpes are a masterful arrangement of textures, colour and flavours. All the beef is sourced from the market at nearby St Boswells; the chunky Black Bull burger comes with home-made chutney and a Port Salut melted cheese topping. Local cheese and ice-cream are also a regular feature. It's definitely worth digging out the walking boots or cycle helmet to justify a visit to the Black Bull for lunch or dinner.

• High point: Great range of well cooked, no-nonsense food
• Low point: Dining rooms towards the back are dark for daytime eating