The Garvald Inn

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The Garvald Inn is a real community hub for the small, picturesque East Lothian village after which it is named. The bright red stone exterior blends in with the surrounding buildings, and the bar-restaurant plays host to a steady stream of regulars seeking a bite to eat, a sociable drink, or a place to wind down following strenuous group activities in the village hall such as Scottish country dancing. The restaurant also welcomes regular visitors from further afield, particularly in summer when diners can unwind and soak up some rays in the south-facing beer garden. The menu is a mix of familiar modern pub staples and the odd surprise, everything executed with care and strong attention to detail by chef Peter McQuade. The cream of curried vegetable soup is rich and tasty, while the chicken liver pâté is smooth, strongly flavoured and perfect for spreading on gritty oatcakes. Of the mains, pheasant arrives wrapped in bacon with a dense apple and apricot stuffing, while tender loin of venison is complemented by a sweet redcurrant and port jus. While filling, the meal is not unpleasantly heavy on the stomach, and you may even find room to squeeze in a wonderfully light, creamy lemon posset for dessert.

• High point: Lovely warm, welcoming atmosphere
• Low point: Visitors will need their map and compass to find it