Howies

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

The Howies stable of four branches across Edinburgh has become something of an institution. Partly down to their longevity, the brand has come to represent familiar, value-for-money eating in attractive premises – the Waterloo Place branch is housed in a Georgian Grade A listed building. Across all branches there’s a good nod to Scotland’s larder with beef and game from Scottish farms, free-range eggs and chickens, and local suppliers for the rest. The menus are thematically similar but each branch devises its own dishes, which along with unique premises, means that there’s never a feeling going back to the same old. From the bustling lunch time crowd at the West End, to the local feel of Bruntsfield to the grandness of Waterloo Place and the atmosphere of Victoria Street, there’s something here for everyone. Starters of home cured gravadlax with a sesame, ginger and cardamom dressing is a new twist on an old favourite at Bruntsfield, while the West End’s smoked Scottish mackerel pâté is something special. There’s always a good, if limited, vegetarian option across the branches and while mains like a breast of Scottish free range chicken is slightly overpowered by a thyme potato cake, a lunch croque monsieur is deliciously smokey with ham and gruyère. Desserts including Howies ‘infamous’ banoffi pie.

• High point: The unique venues
• Low point: Service is a bit hit or miss