Kokuryo

Comments & reviews (2)Share this

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

When faced with handfuls of fresh chillies alongside dried chilli peppers in what seems like a never-ending bowl of beef soup (a starter so intense, it might take until dessert time to finish), it's clear that the chef isn't holding anything back. Kokuryo excels in producing Korean-style dishes that bring tears to your eyes while still allowing milder ingredients to shine. The décor feels modern with its monochrome colour scheme and bold floral prints, but the kitchen strives for authenticity. The traditional serving of accompaniments, or 'banchan', includes kimchi – a fermented cabbage akin to spicy sauerkraut. The char-grilled sizzling chicken is noteworthy – sesame oil, soybean and garlic combine to create a sturdy marinade while retaining their unique characteristics. Glutinous rice cakes are pleasingly chewy while sweet potatoes soften the consistency. An extravagant fresh seafood hotpot is outstanding – the steam that vaporises from the huge basin is oceanic, hinting at an excellent fish stock. Meanwhile, lurking beneath broth is a multitude of exotic seafood including green-lipped mussels, crab claws and baby squid. This creates a sense of anticipation usually associated with going fishing. The waiting staff are skilled in their command of tables during busy periods, protecting Kokuryo's reputation as a pleasurable place to eat. Despite added seats on the mezzanine, this small restaurant fills up quickly, so book ahead.

• High point: Contrasting flavours and textures work in harmony
• Low point: Desserts an afterthought

Comments

1. Andy D, Glasgow – 10 May 2008, 4:04pmReport

The food was nice, but the service was awful. There were two of us and we got the main courses about 15 minutes apart. The table behind us were complaining about not getting their drinks until they had practically finished their starters. Once we had finished it took them about 20 mins to clear our plates and another 15 to bring a dessert (a bowl of ice cream). Over all not somewhere I would want to go back to any time soon.

2. Andy T, Glasgow – 4 August 2008, 11:10pmReport

Would agree with the above poster - food was reasonable, service was downright awful! Firstly the middle aged waitress had no courtesy in greeting my wife or I. During the meal my wife took some photos of her meal (odd habit I know but hey she's passionate about food!) at which point the waitress stormed over and stated that photos were not allowed and all their dishes (which were generic recipes which can be found in most oriental restaurants) were registered trademarks and if we put the pictures up on any web sites or blogs they would sue us! Now a simple "I'm sorry sir/madam but we don't allow photos" would have sufficed, instead of some rude half assed hostile threat which was spoken by somebody who has watched too much Ally McBeal. Anyway moving on, the food was actually reasonable until we discovered two hairs halfway in my wife's rice! Upon pointing this out to the older waitress, we were met with a glare and silence for about thirty seconds before she said "okay"! Now we have eaten in restaurants before where this kind of thing has happened, but it is the first time we were met with such an unapologetic response and it is the first time I have ever heard a waitress say in respone to such a situation that it's ok! Needless to say all appetite went out the window and it is not somewhere we will be returning in a hurry.

To post a comment you'll first need to log in: Forgotten your password?

Not registered? Sign up – it only takes a minute.