Kokuryo

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

When faced with handfuls of fresh chillies alongside dried chilli peppers in what seems like a never-ending bowl of beef soup (a starter so intense, it might take until dessert time to finish), it's clear that the chef isn't holding anything back. Kokuryo excels in producing Korean-style dishes that bring tears to your eyes while still allowing milder ingredients to shine. The décor feels modern with its monochrome colour scheme and bold floral prints, but the kitchen strives for authenticity. The traditional serving of accompaniments, or 'banchan', includes kimchi – a fermented cabbage akin to spicy sauerkraut. The char-grilled sizzling chicken is noteworthy – sesame oil, soybean and garlic combine to create a sturdy marinade while retaining their unique characteristics. Glutinous rice cakes are pleasingly chewy while sweet potatoes soften the consistency. An extravagant fresh seafood hotpot is outstanding – the steam that vaporises from the huge basin is oceanic, hinting at an excellent fish stock. Meanwhile, lurking beneath broth is a multitude of exotic seafood including green-lipped mussels, crab claws and baby squid. This creates a sense of anticipation usually associated with going fishing. The waiting staff are skilled in their command of tables during busy periods, protecting Kokuryo's reputation as a pleasurable place to eat. Despite added seats on the mezzanine, this small restaurant fills up quickly, so book ahead.

• High point: Contrasting flavours and textures work in harmony
• Low point: Desserts an afterthought