Hanedan

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The fact that Hanedan's owner and chef, Gursel Bahar, has previously flexed his culinary muscles at the Four Seasons and with Sir Terence Conran at London's exquisite Quaglino's restaurant will come as little surprise to anyone who's sampled the mouth-watering delights of this Turkish haven. Hanedan's simple furnishings and authentically Turkish design creates an ambience and comfort for food lovers keen to work their way through Bahar's incredibly versatile menu. The relatively new addition of a seafood specials menu is quite simply a delight. Thick pieces of moist, aromatic swordfish are cooked to perfection on the in-house charcoal grill, while, elsewhere on the menu, standard Turkish staples, such as the lamb moussaka and karishik izgara – mixed grill – are as sumptuous as they are filling. Vegetarians will not be disappointed with the succulent bamya guvec – okra casserole – while those looking for something a little lighter can opt for the mixed mezze, complete with hummus, stuffed vine leaves and the deliciously versatile ispanakli yogurt. Deserts are simple but delicious, with 'Hanedan's mess' – a light, creamy concoction of pineapple, cream and meringue – stealing the show. Wonderful service and attention to detail completes a highly enjoyable culinary experience.

• High point: Delicious seafood selections
• Low point: Limited dessert choice