Duck's at Kilspindie House

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

The Kilspindie has been a landmark hotel in Aberlady village for many years. Edinburgh restaurateur Malcolm Duck took over in 2004 with the avowed aim of pulling folk out from the city, and the food’s certainly good enough to tempt many to Sunday lunch or a bar meal after a game of golf or a walk on East Lothian’s beaches. There's a choice of glowing candles, white linen and leather chairs in Duck's Restaurant or the less formal Donald's Bistro, an airy room with a newly refurbished granite bar and sports on TV. The menus offer an array of bar favourites plus a clutch of more sophisticated options. Dishes on the dinner menu might include sweetly seared scallops with runny black pudding and celariac purée, or pigeon breast with puy lentils and redcurrant jus, followed by a sea bass fillet with mussels, clams, an oyster and saffron potatoes. The kitchen’s way with flavours is assured and Duck's technical skills surefooted, so expect your fish to be fresh, your meat succulent, and your puds creamy, sticky, crumbly or high-voltage chocolately, as appropriate.