Duck's at Kilspindie House Hotel

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• Average price 2 courses:
   £13.95 (set lunch)
   £23 (evening meal)
• House wine: £10.50 per bottle

• High point: Menus that proudly raid East Lothian's excellent local larder
• Low point: When combinations get over-elaborate
• Food served: Mon-Fri noon-3pm, 5-10pm; Sat/Sun noon-10pm
• Private dining: Up to 100 covers
• No. overnight rooms: 26
• Open since: 2004
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Translating the success of his busy New Town restaurant to Aberlady's quiet environs can't have been easy, but Malcolm Duck's award-winning coastal venture is becoming a destination in its own right. The restaurant is light and pleasant, its understated décor given a cheerfully idiosyncratic twist by the collection of duck ornaments scattered around. The seasonal menus showcase excellent local produce with ambition and flair, limited only by the occasional attempt to gild the lily: a starter of mackerel with chickpea and beetroot salad, for example, gains little from the shot glass of bland guacamole which arrives alongside. Mains might include venison with buttery parsnip and foie gras purée and intense red wine jus, while lighter fish dishes still carry powerful flavours, such as roasted monkfish with chorizo foam. Favourite puddings include dark, oozy chocolate fondant and moist, fluffy apple sponge. On Sundays, the set lunch menu makes concessions to the roast beef brigade while still keeping sophisticated palates interested. Meanwhile, the cosy bar serves an informal dishes ranging from light salads through to hearty (gastro) pub grub classics without compromising on quality. With delightful surroundings, fine food and friendly staff, what more could you want? After perusing the excellent wine list, perhaps just a comfy room for the night.