Raeburn's Bistro and Grill

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Raeburn's Bistro and Grill is the kind of reassuringly friendly, quality-conscious establishment you wish existed in every neighbourhood. A grateful diaspora of Paisley locals seem to take good advantage of it – tenth birthday celebrations occur later this year – and those from further afield might be tempted by the fact that it's a mere two minutes' walk from Paisley's Gilmour Street train station, making it just as accessible to visitors from Glasgow and points south. The relaxed interior features some classy dark wood furnishings and twinkling fairy lights. Choices from the various fixed price deals on offer throughout the day – including a grill menu with steaks from 'prime grass-fed Highland cattle' – are as dashingly Scottish as chef/proprietor Kerr Raeburn's name. For starters, west coast scallops are seared to gloriously buttery nubbins in a pea and pancetta broth, and a liberal dose of truffle oil adds intrigue to some wild mushroom soup. Main courses include some hazelnut-crusted lamb with a knobbly cake of bubble and squeak in an aromatic rosemary jus. Desserts include sticky toffee pud along with more adventurous treats such as lemon syllabub or crème-fraîche sorbet. Lunch is particularly good value at £10.95 for two courses.

• High point: A beer list as good as the wine list
• Low point: Boring bread