The Brasserie, Norton House Hotel & Spa

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Norton House Hotel harbours two principal dining spots: upscale, eight-table Ushers may be the hotel's signature restaurant, but the informal Brasserie more than holds its own. Either way, you get to savour the same grandiose arrival up the sweeping driveway that heralds the entrance to this 1840s country house retreat. In place of the busy A8 airport road is a New York-style brasserie, all mood lighting, dark woods and subdued lounge music. That the brasserie is mainly the preserve of expense account-toting business people is something of a shame, as the no-frills international comfort menu does exactly what it says on the tin. The Caesar salad is spot-on, while the mains include chunky burgers and char-grilled steaks. The subtle and light almond panacotta is the pick of the desserts. Service is brisk and responsive and, mercifully, they don't discriminate between residents and non-residents. A decent range of wines by the glass, handily available in 175ml or 250ml variations, completes a pleasing picture at a brasserie in a wonderfully grand venue that really deserves to attract more than just overnighting businessmen. The hotel and brand new spa await diners who cannot face driving back into the real world.

• High point: Satisfying international comfort food in a grand setting near the increasingly international airport
• Low point: Wines by the bottle don't come cheap