Utopia

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses: N/A (set lunch) / £9
• House wine: £10 per bottle

• High point: Thoughtful, broad menu
• Low point: The big screen football can kill a quiet conversation
• Food served: Mon-Thu 5.30-9pm; Fri noon-2.30pm, 5.30-9pm; Sat noon-8pm; Sun 12.30-8pm
• Bar open: Mon-Wed 4-midnight; Thu 4-1am; Fri/Sat noon-1am; Sun 12.30pm-midnight
• Open since: 2006
• Also offers: Wheelchair access

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

Lurking on Easter Road is the subdued-looking Utopia, whose brown exterior doesn't seem to tally with the celestial name. However, stepping off the busy road, you enter a well-designed, modern pub. The new managers have decided to close on football days, clearly indicating the market they're avoiding. The drinking and dining areas are separated, although the big-screen sport can attract a rowdy crowd for those wanting a quiet setting. The menu is a pleasant surprise, with starters including a creamy chicken liver pâté and a divine 'wee tart' slathered with spinach, mushrooms and feta. The main courses contain enough standard pub grub to satisfy the grumpiest regular: steak pie, scampi and stovies are scattered among slightly more adventurous options such as stuffed peppers and Greek salads. The veggie burger is crunchy and moreish, and accompanied by good old-fashioned home-made fat chips. The Utopia burger is a burlier stack of burgers, cheese, bacon and onion rings. The prices are reasonable, with rolls from £1.75 and a mass of chilli con carne for £5.95. With a bottle of house wine with which to swill it down, and a back to the world outside, you could be anywhere you fancy.