Trattoria Siciliana

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

With a door that won't close, the lingering smell of cigar smoke, glaring lights and a disinterested waiter, Trattoria Siciliana doesn't make a great first impression. Frustratingly, remedies to the situation don't appear thick on the ground. Staff aren't big on detail (it would be helpful to know before ordering that many dishes aren't available), so have a back-up in mind when choosing from the vast menu. Apart from the odd appearance of the aubergine in dishes such as caponata alla Siciliana and spaghetti alla norma, the fare is standard Italian rather than typically Sicilian. Starters include a flavoursome but soggy bruschetta and a fairly forgettable antipasto misto. Mains, which arrive at lightning speed courtesy of a microwave, include delicately spiced meatballs in a tomato and pea sauce, and a hearty home-made spinach cannelloni. Although substantial, both dishes are lukewarm in the middle and piping-hot around the edges. Uninspiring desserts include the fresh-out-of-the-cardboard-box apple pie, served cold and smothered in canned whipped cream. Trattoria Siciliana is a no-frills affair – ageing décor coupled with microwaved food create a half-hearted rather than homey feel – but with deals like any one pasta dish for four people for £5 each, you're bound to find a bargain.

• High point: Cheap prices and BYOB with no corkage
• Low point: A lick of paint and a bit of DIY would do wonders