sygn

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Sygn has been quietly building a reputation for quality since it first appeared in a fuzzy pink glow in 2004. In both style and substance it is the equal of any of the bars on George Street. Subdued lighting, considered décor and plush furnishings set the scene, while the relaxed, unobtrusive service sets the standard, and a superb, sequenced menu selection sets the taste buds tingling in anticipation. The choices on the evening menu are tantalising: for starters, both the barbecued ribs and the salmon skewers major on bold flavours that linger on the palate. Sea bass may be ubiquitous on restaurant menus, but sygn produce a simple and worthy Mediterranean dish to complement the beautifully moist fish. The pork fillet wrapped in pancetta sits atop delicious caramelised apples and a honey and mustard sauce. If that dish can't satisfy a sweet tooth, then the desserts themselves will not fail. Both the panacotta and lemon cheesecake with raspberry sorbet are fresh and light on the palate. Impeccable bar credentials also mean that you can enjoy your meal with a great selection of wines by the glass, speciality spirits, freshly shaken cocktails or freshly blended smoothies.

• High point: Metropolitan sophistication in the heart of the capital
• Low point: Paper napkins are a style faux pas

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