The Stockbridge Restaurant

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Following the twinkling fairy lights down the old stone steps, it's difficult not to be charmed by this charismatic St Stephen Street retreat. It's laden with bold Scottish Colourist prints, near-black walls are offset by crisp white linen and golden soft furnishings, making an elegant dining space that happily marries the neighbourhood's bohemian past and affluent present. Not to be upstaged, head chef and owner Jason Gallagher's enticing menu features flourishes of its own. Dainty but delicious seared scallops sit nobly atop spring onion blinis, enjoying the smokiness of their crushed vine tomato, bacon and sage accompaniment. Equally well executed is a tender pan-fried Gressingham duck breast with potato purée, savoy cabbage and an earthy beetroot and creamy goat's cheese tartlet. Desserts pay equal respect to the Scottish seasons, such as an assiette of rhubarb, which presents the fruit in three glorious ways. Between each course attentive staff sweep by with extra mouthfuls to sample, making for an enjoyable – but not inexpensive – experience. Though a reduced set menu operates on week nights, Sunday evenings offer the best value for those on a budget, with two courses at just £15.95 (three for £18.95), plus the option, for this night only, to bring your own wine.

• High point: First-class food served in cosy and charismatic surroundings
• Low point: Décor could do with some minor touch-ups