D'Antonio's

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

A brief sojourn to Italy last summer for owners Antonello D'Antonio and Carol Lawrie resulted in this elegant shorefront restaurant being transformed into an American-Italian style diner for a few months. But the chef-patron and front-of-house manager have now returned and the old-style menu, influenced by D'Antonio's roots in the ancient Etruscan city of Viterbo, has been reinstated. The blue neon sign above the entrance has gone – replaced by more subdued gold lettering – and the interior has also had a revamp, with neutral walls and simple wooden furniture giving the large, airy room a fresh, contemporary feel, although the modern sparseness perhaps belies the more abundant, rustic charms of the cooking. Insalata di mare is a generous tangle of squid, prawns and mussels, with a white wine and olive oil dressing that gives it a delicate, summery freshness in keeping with the restaurant's marine location, while sweet, plump parcels of ravioli stuffed with pumpkin and amaretto biscuits have a delightfully crunchy texture. Roast belly of pork is cooked Viterbo-style, stuffed with herbs and sitting in a puddle of fragrant juices. Desserts are a fairly simple affair, with the usual classic options to choose from, such as a fluffy, espresso-infused tiramisu.

• High point: Italian food with soul
• Low point: Contemporary look lacks the charm of the cooking