D'Antonio's

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £7.95 (set lunch)
   £19 (evening meal)
• House wine: £13 per bottle

• High point: Handles authentic and adventurous with equal aplomb
• Low point: Exterior blue lighting concept is a tad, well, blue
• Food served: Tue-Sun noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. Closed Mon
• Open since: 2004
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

D'Antonio's is just a short distance from the eating hotspots of Leith's Shore but it's well worth strolling the extra 100 yards along the river to find. It's a civilized place that's fresh and airy, and - apart from the ceiling's exuberant plasterwork - pleasantly low-key. A warm welcome kicks in straight away, with fruity Italian olive oil and fresh bread, breadsticks and crisp Sardinian carta da musica to munch while you ponder. Antipasti don't strain for originality, but the char-grilled baby squid, grilled vegetables and salumi are nonetheless thoroughly appetising and conscientiously prepared. For the mains, centre stage belongs to generous helpings of richly-sauced meat and fish, and those who appreciate robust flavours will relish pork with Piedmont honey and gorgonzola. The spaghetti carbonara is smoky with pancetta, eggily unctuous and cooked, in true Italian fashion, without cream but with a hunk of parmesan offered to be freshly grated. Just as authentic is the saltimbocca alla Romana, plump little cushions of veal pinned with a sage leaf and Parma ham. For the 'better completion of lunch or supper', the fruit ice-creams from Gelateria Matteo in Baronissi are as beguiling to eat as the translated Italian descriptions are to read.