Calistoga

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Calistoga is Edinburgh's only dedicated Californian restaurant. It also has its own wine shop, Sideways, in which curious Chardonnay quaffers can take a personally tutored wine tasting before dinner. There is an astounding range of expertly selected wines to accompany each course and every dish, though even the house Zinfandel cuts a dash. Beware clumsiness in the compact dining space of this shrine to wine, but be impressed by a desirable shelf of bourbons and brandies, by linen tablecloths, complimentary appetisers and perfectly poised service. Castiloga's frequently changing set menu showcases progressive Californian cuisine with a nod to Pacific Rim sensibilities. Among starters which pose happy dilemmas are joyously juicy miso mushrooms, while the subtly unravelling flavours of the layered goat's cheese, sweet potato, tomato and basil frittata make a whole that nears the exquisite. Among a stylish selection of mains, morsels of red roast pork fillet are teamed with turmeric mash and gazpacho salsa, and gorgeous grilled bream is accompanied by an astounding potato salad. Desserts are pure pleasure, whether mango, vanilla and banana Bavarois, the signature pancake cheesecake (yes, indeed) with its two-tone cream and crunch texture, or a fine cheeseboard.

• High point: Subtle, stylish, startlingly good food
• Low point: Audible kitchen radio doesn't match the class of establishment