Halcyon Restaurant

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Chef/proprietor Shona Thomson (formerly of Edinburgh's Cafe Hub) has been at the helm of this Peebles town centre restaurant since November 2007. Tucked away above Villeneuve Wines, it has been refurbished and is a cleanly designed, warmly-lit place where Borders folk and visitors relax happily. Service is knowledgeable and friendly, while monthly changing menus reflect Thomson's interest in marrying globetrotting-inspired styles with local ingredients, but feature classic combinations too. Intriguing and tempting starters include pork belly salad with palm sugar dressing or spicy pork wontons with shitake mushroom broth, alongside richly moist salmon and crab pâté with melba toast and a piquantly dressed green salad. For mains, try the braised lamb shanks, which are spiced with the eastern promise of tamarind and dates. If it's on, don't miss poached maize chicken stuffed with oxtail and savoy cabbage: the contrasting meats are served with supreme confidence with a light, beautifully flavoured broth from the bird. Leave room for puds such as creamed rice pudding with spiced apricots, or chocoholic lapses such as milk chocolate and banana parfait with velvety chocolate ganache. The short, good-value wine list includes house viognier from Argentina and house chenin blanc and cinsaut/cabernet from young South African winemakers.

• High point: Traditionally rooted yet progressive style is nicely judged for this Tweedside town
• Low point: Food really deserves a slightly enhanced wine list