Hewat's Restaurant

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

The entrance into Hewat's is a bit like a homely B&B sitting room, complete with large, comfy sofas, floral prints on the wall and cream and maroon décor. Turning a corner into the restaurant proper reveals a classic combination of dark wood furnishings, wood flooring and white tablecloths contrasted against some rather striking modern artwork on the walls. This room is just as welcoming and relaxed as the first, which speaks volumes about the atmosphere that Richard and Margaret Hewat have tried to create. The emphasis here is on comfort and the classics – the menu is filled with the likes of Cullen skink, smoked salmon, venison and Aberdeen Angus steak. There are some imaginative vegetarian options, such as a baked pepper with mushroom risotto and truffle oil, but overall it's a meat-lover's game. Starters include a tart roasted red pepper soup with a slight but definite chilli kick, which sets you up well for a deliciously full-flavoured and tender saddle of venison with shallots and a red wine jus. When it comes to dessert, terminally indecisive sweet-fanciers are relieved of that agonising choice, with the option of trying a bit of everything for a wallet-friendly £4.95.

• High point: Every dessert – all at once
• Low point: The art might upset diners of a sensitive disposition