Thai Lemongrass

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

This city centre Thai restaurant has been consistently good since it opened for business, and business lunches, in 2004. A set lunch menu is geared towards shifting bowls of Thai chicken soup, spring rolls, satay, and green curry to people wanting to escape city offices for an hour or so. Beyond the set lunch, speciality starters include pork ribs with kafir lime dressing which are crunchy and delicately flavoured and a prawn 'dry curry' with sticky rice alongside plump whole prawns in a pungent red sauce. There is a slight sense that some of the à la carte dishes rely on ready-made sauces but if you stick to the high-turnover set lunch menu the freshness and quality is consistently good. Although the limited choice appears to ignore veggies, the chefs are more than happy to improvise. The excellent green curry is thus made even more green by the substitution of meat with crunchy pieces of carrot, broccoli, red pepper and aubergine, plenty of whole green peppercorns and sliced, fresh chillies. Staff are always delightful and the food never veers far from very good.

• High point: Thai chicken soup for the soul
• Low point: Set menu beats the à la carte