Red Onion

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

John Quigley, occasional celebrity chef and Ready Steady Cook crackerjack, is a reliable presence at this popular city centre bistro, which he co-owns with his wife. Gags and TV studio lights aren't much in evidence at Red Onion, which rather blends an elegant interior with an easygoing atmosphere. Snug booths and an almost hidden mezzanine deliver welcome seclusion from the hustle and bustle outside for the many shoppers and business types who have become regulars. The menu is as dependable as the surroundings, offering something for everyone, including daily specials and pre-theatre options. British classics such as fish and chips with mushy peas stand alongside American burgers, Mexican quesadillas and French onion soup. Asian influences also feature, such as a starter of chunky duck spring rolls infused with a hint of ginger or a main course of colossal Indonesian beef rendang that breaks tenderly from the fork and is very spicy indeed. Desserts vary in excitement, but the Italian affogato triumphs as customers delight in drowning their creamy vanilla ice with the rich, hot espresso served in a little white cup.

• High point: Big, cosy fireplace
• Low point: Too many pictures of red onions?