Centotre

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

With its funky hot-pink walls, edgy uplighting and smooth background jazz, über-cool Centotre dresses to impress, and equally style-conscious diners pack out the place pretty much every night of the week. The downside of this popularity is that smaller groups get lost in the crowd – coats left unchecked, cutlery forgotten and main meals arriving straight after the starters are giveaways that easier orders are being rushed to concentrate on the larger ones. But the innovative, monthly-changing menu covers all bases, from good home-made pastas (the fresh scallop ravioli is light and deliciously sweet) and elegantly thin pizzas to authentic but adventurous meat, chicken and seafood meals. 'Fresh. Simple. Italian' is the philosophy of owners Victor and Carina Contini, who bring in most of their produce from artisan suppliers in Milan, but some dishes, such as the antipasto of pan-fried Scottish mussels and main of Italian sausages with polenta and lentils, although substantial, could do with some extra seasoning. Dessert helpings are huge and even the most committed sweet tooth would struggle with a third course. Centotre caters well for kids, offering balanced meals (and colouring-in kits), and grown-ups can choose from breakfast, lunch, dinner, cocktails, coffee and even Sunday roast.

• High point: Buzzy atmosphere
• Low point: Service needs a spruce-up

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