Dakhin

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

There’s something enticing about the neon glow of Dhakin’s entrance, and upstairs the temptation continues with fragrant coconut wafting around – the smell of south Indian food. Décor is hip with leafy plants and lots of wood and metal giving a fresh, funky feel enhanced by artwork that’s art nouveau meets Chairman Mao. To start, thin slices of meaty swordfish stand up to a batter of lemon and chilli, while soft chunks of lamb are marinated in a seasoned tomato paste, rounded-off sweetly with coconut flakes. Coconut dominates, most obviously in mamsa ishtu – lamb and potato in a smooth, lingering sauce of coconut milk and black pepper. Western palates might expect a tart contrast but the kitchen commendably maintains the integrity of the dish. They’re adept with souring agents elsewhere – lemon sole, smeared in a sauce hinting of garlic and chilli, tomato, oil and charcoal but with a citrus edge from tamarind and asafoetida. Desserts shine too: cardamom ice-cream, the spicier cousin of vanilla; mango cheesecake that like so much else is remarkably fresh and light. Very impressive, all round.

• High point: Something a bit different, in both cooking and décor
• Low point: The different dosas all taste rather similar

1. Charly The Glasgow Chav, GLASGOW – 25 July 2008, 10:42amDakhinReport

AYE,

A BUMP AN AL .. GAE HIR IF YE LIKE GITTIN RIPPED AFF YIR LAMB BOONER