Observatory

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

Observatory offers informal neighbourhood dining in a site pitched between the West End and city centre. Warm sandstone and scrubbed-wood finishes with plain, unlaid tables give an unpretentious and appropriately flexible feel for its diverse clientele, which ranges from office workers, parents with pushchairs and affluent park locals to a more studenty crowd. The surprisingly spacious bar area offers a more casual alternative to the linear layout of the child-friendly conservatory. There's just one all-day menu, which is focused, but nevertheless full of tempting choices. A salad of mango and slow-roasted pork in a lime and chilli dressing is tangy with satisfyingly sticky hunks of soft meat. Alternatively, a soft white roll full of seared scallops and Ayrshire bacon takes the familiar greasy-spoon comfort of a 'meal in a bun' to new heights. Many dishes come in either starter or main-sized portions. Sunday brunch can become an all-day affair that practically demands a relaxing few hours with a pile of papers and a Bloody Mary.

• High point: Simple choices delivered well at fair prices
• Low point: Nothing sweet to go with coffee