Russells Bar Café

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Russells resembles something of a secret den, with bare brick walls, low ceilings and low lighting. But it's far from being an exclusive club and the atmosphere is never less than inviting. With a roster of weekly events including Monday acoustic nights, Tuesday quiz nights, flat-screen TVs for the footy and DJs on Saturdays, it's a home from home for many students. Another attraction is the hard-to-beat food deals, such as the 'penne for a pound' promotion on Sunday evenings and a burger, chips and a pint for £3, available Monday to Thursday after 8pm. Fittingly, the menu proper is full of comfort food classics such as pizzas, steak pie, fish and chips and a range of those burgers (made with Angus beef), with not many mains topping £6. A simple macaroni cheese is rich and creamy and served with chips and salad, while the kitchen also turns a competent hand to Tex Mex such as nachos, chilli, fajitas and an enchilada filled with vegetables and an assortment of beans. There's a small range of desserts, with the sticky toffee pudding and caramel shortcake keeping to the theme of simple, filling grub.

• High point: Unfussy and filling
• Low point: Side salads could do with a little dressing