The Bothy

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Tucked away in Ruthven Lane, a stone's throw from the hustle and bustle of Byres Road, the Bothy combines modern design with traditional touches, creating a look somewhere between country hotel sitting room and trendy style bar. The kitchen aims to produce 'food like your granny makes', with wholesome, hearty comfort dishes such as haggis and mussel stew on the menu. A solid starter of pork pie terrine has a salty pastry crust and is served with pickled onions, while thick folds of smoked salmon on soda bread are drizzled with a herby sour cream dressing. A roast breast of chicken has the promised crispy skin and works well with the cabbage and mash, but is let down by flabby bacon rashers and a rather bland, thin gravy. A slow-cooked chunk of pork belly fares better, the tender meat falling away from tasty crackling, and is accompanied by a chunk of black pudding. Those with a very sweet tooth should consider the caramel and orange tart that comes complete with crumbled tablet. Kilted waiting staff flit efficiently between the many tables and remain friendly and focused, even when the restaurant is busy – which it often is, so make sure to book.

• High point: Buzzing atmosphere
• Low point: Overdoing the tartanry

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