Roastit Bubbly Jocks

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Amidst the charity shops at the long end of Dumbarton Road, Roastit Bubbly Jocks might seem out of the way. For many, however, it's a well-loved dining institution. The emphasis is on the food and atmosphere: it's bustling, loud and warm – the way any authentic bistro should be. The décor exudes an understated hip, and the menu is unpretentious and highly considered. Part of the appeal of the restaurant is its turning well-loved Scottish favourites, such as Scotch broth or mince and tatties, into accomplished modern dishes. A trio of smoked fish to start is an example of the fresh local flavours. A rich jus of orange and garlic is the ideal complement for a main course of tender slow-cooked shin of beef, accompanied by a vibrant mix of roast cherry tomatoes and Portobello mushroom. On the dessert menu, in-between the sticky toffee puddings and apple crumbles, the home-made bread and butter pudding with fresh vanilla custard stands out. It is delicately spiced, with comforting, familiar flavours. The hand-written, photocopied menu changes daily, and the staff are lively and friendly. All that, and there's even a window with which to spy on the kitchen.

• High point: Bustling, unfussy atmosphere
• Low point: Tables too close together for some