Roastit Bubbly Jocks

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• What are these?

• Average price 2 courses:
   £18 (lunch)
   £18 (evening meal)
• House wine: £11.95 per bottle
• BYOB: £4 corkage (£10 corkage for champagne)

• Hitlisted
• High point: Confident and quirky with food to back it up
• Low point: Informal to the extreme
• Food served: Mon-Thu 5-9.30pm; Fri/Sat noon-2.30pm, 5-10pm; Sun noon-8pm
• Open since: 2004
• Also offers: Childrens portions, Childrens high chairs, Wheelchair access, Pre-theatre menu

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops.

This review is from the 2007 edition.

This unassuming little spot on Dumbarton Road playfully lulls patrons into a false sense of carelessness: a shower curtain keeps the draft out, and paintings on the wall are a cheerful hotchpotch of styles and eras. There's a BYOB policy (though it is licensed), and almost a 'knowing wink' from the waitress when she presents you with the photocopied, handwritten menu. This is nice and basic, to maximise the contrast with the top-notch food. The name, which means 'roasted turkey', gives away the Scottish influence, with starters such as west coast chowder that tastes of haddock and potatoes, coating pieces of trout, shrimp and shelled mussels. A salad of Dunshyre Blue cheese is enriched by slices of pear and a fruity balsamic reduction; this dish is well thought-out and well executed. Hearty, classy dishes define the main courses and include casseroles, lamb shank, duck breast and bold cuts of meat. Two dark medallions of venison are juicy through the middle (not an easy feat) and served with braised beetroot and cabbage, while wild boar sausages are as rugged as they come, seasoned and coarse at first with a lovely porkiness coming through for real character. The best dessert is probably the apple crumble that achieves that happy medium between chewy and crunchy. By the end of their meal, diners will appreciate the initial trickery of the place.