The Clay Oven

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Located at the Bruntsfield/Morningside crossover point, the Clay Oven feels very much like a neighbourhood restaurant. Well laid out, with smart décor and attentive staff, it's the kind of place you can rely on. The food may not rock your world, but neither will it let you down. And with such a wide-ranging menu to choose from, you could easily opt for something different each time. Nothing here will break the bank, which only adds to the Clay Oven's appeal as a regular sit-in and takeaway option. Served between noon and 2pm, the three-course business lunch is fantastic value for money at £5.95, and features a starter, choice of main curry, dessert, rice or bread. The sizeable portions make both mains and sides ideal for sharing, and there's a substantial number of vegetarian options. With over 21 'Clay Oven specialities' on offer, however, it's hard to ensure they are just that – special. But the kitchen's clay oven (yes, that is indeed what they use) certainly turns out tender chunks of lamb, spicy chicken kebabs and creamy dhaals that are hot and flavoursome. The bought-in frozen desserts lack imagination, but are welcome palate-cleansers after a big meal.

• High point: Friendly, neighbourhood feel
• Low point: Food that's satisfactory rather than stunning