Chukoku

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

Chukoku, which means 'China' in Japanese, fuses a Victorian Sauchiehall Street façade with a friendly but functional modern interior that presents one of the more stylish options among the city's entourage of buffet-style Chinese eateries. More than 50 dishes, often including four types of sushi and a dozen or so starters, are usually available at the rows of steam tables that fill one side of the dining room. Perhaps there is an over-emphasis on deep-fried food (breaded chicken and the like), but there is also no shortage of crisp salads and fresh fruit. All the usual favourites (beef with black bean sauce, for example) are on offer, but there are a few unexpected dishes, too: char sui pork, typically sliced thinly, comes in rather satisfying chunky cuts here, while some lychees offer contrasts in another chicken dish. For sweet lovers, Chukoku offers a surprisingly wide selection.

• High point: Huge range
• Low point: Dishes slightly bland