Coia's Café

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Coia's has been dishing out Italian favourites, chip shop classics and, of course, its famous home-made ice-cream since it first opened its doors in 1928. Following a 2006 facelift and expansion – which included adding a well-stocked delicatessen – Coia's looks exceptionally good for an octogenarian. Now run by the third generation, this welcoming Dennistoun café continues to serve unpretentious, wholesome Italian and Scottish food, whether rich steak pie with a gigantic cloud of mashed potato, spaghetti and meatballs or classic pizzas (blissfully free of any daft pineapple or sweetcorn toppings). The reputation-forming fish and chip teas, a raft of baguette options and salads round out the printed selection. Specials can include rib-sticking chicken and rice soup, crayfish with sizzling garlic butter or home-made salmon and ricotta ravioli in a herbed cream sauce. The canny customer will save space for dessert. Coia's choices could break the will of the most disciplined dieter. Be sure to check out the hypnotic rotating ice-cream chiller by the deli – a step is thoughtfully provided so that even the smallest customer can enjoy the view.

• High point: Family-friendly setting
• Low point: 16-page menu makes it hard to choose