Coia's Café

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The 2011/12 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the current (2011) edition.

When you’ve been in business since 1928, you must build up a lot of regulars – perhaps that’s why this Dennistoun institution has such a large menu, because they can’t risk disappointment by dropping any old favourites. It’s an odd mix of traditional Italian restaurant, with many more native favourites – mince ’n’ tatties, chips and curry sauce, and full-fried breakfasts – and the attached chippy giving it a cheap ’n’ cheerful feel. And, with this area newly gentrified, there’s also a deli selling home-made items, such as bread, ice-cream and sandwiches. The décor is nicely old-fashioned, emphasising their heritage – the restaurant has been in the same family throughout. A starter of fishcakes in a light ragu has a bland texture but is tasty, while a risotto with lumps of Italian sausage separates nicely but is heavy with the tomato sauce. Grilled sirloin oozes flavour – they boast their beef is all aged for 28 days – and comes with plenty of sides, while fussy people can dictate their personal pizza toppings. Fairly busy most nights, Coia's looks set to be around for another generation.

• High point: Their ice-cream is justly famous
• Low point: Chippy chips look better in a bag than on a plate