Phuket Pavilion

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2009 – in the shops now or buy online.

Over the road from The Playhouse, this welcoming and sweet little slice of Thailand deserves the solid word of mouth reputation it has built up since 2003. Carved dark wood decorates the furniture and walls, soft Thai music is piped through the three rooms, and traditionally dressed staff float between the tables with smiling efficiency. Just as the décor avoids any attempts at OTT New Town glamour, the menu chooses to avoid any ‘modern fusion’ twists and turns, sticking instead to an authentic round-up of seafood specialities, curries, stir fries and noodles. Their staples are reliably memorable – the tom kah soup is fragrantly creamy, with large chunks of lemongrass and galangal bobbing in the mix, and their pad thai is beautifully seasoned and served with a DIY side order of chopped nuts and lemon juice for flavour. Elsewhere, pan-fried monkfish with garlic, or vegetarian massaman curry with peanuts keep tastebuds interested, without veering too far from traditional combinations. Although a midweek meal is unlikely to reveal any major surprises, or take diners anywhere too adventurously off-piste, that is absolutely no bad thing. A trusted, traditional spot, with service so smooth it might as well be on wheels.

• High point: Jumbo prawns almost as big as chicken thighs
• Low point: Take a deep breath before opening the epic menu