Sangster's

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

Like many good restaurants, Sangster's in Elie could easily be passed off as a run-of-the-mill eatery if you only assessed it from the outside. However, as soon as you enter this remarkable little place, the unmistakable aroma of culinary ingenuity convinces you otherwise. And if you needed any more persuasion, the walls groan with press cuttings and awards, including the AA's Restaurant of the Year award for 2006/7. Judging by the food on offer, the acclaim is well deserved. A pressed terrine of chicken, goat's cheese and roasted red pepper wrapped in Parma ham creates a delicate medley of flavours, while succulent five-spiced belly of pork cooked for 12 hours is a fantastic opening dish. Bruce and Jacqueline Sangster have a meticulous and detailed approach that is exemplified by the impressive main course of slow-cooked shoulder noisette of lamb with crushed root vegetables and dauphinoise potatoes. Indeed, with local produce mixing freely with international influences, there is a kaleidoscope of flavours on offer. The Catalan vanilla crème brûlée, for example, or sticky toffee pudding with home-made ice cream are devilishly tempting and just as tasty. Sangster's is a place to sample insightful cooking and friendly service, although it's worth pointing out that eating here is by reservation only.

• High point: Intriguing dishes of the highest order
• Low point: Ambience on the subdued side