Sangster’s

The 2012 edition of The List's Eating & Drinking Guide is out now – only £5.95 (+p&p).

This review is taken from the 2011 edition.

Bruce and Jackie Sangster are now cruising into their eighth year with eponymous restaurant Sangster's, new(ish) Michelin star in tow. Bruce runs a solo show in the kitchen while Jackie takes care of front of house. Cosmetically it’s a domestic set-up; a terraced property with diners sitting in the ‘front-room’- nets, ornaments et al. The food, however, is far from home cooking; Bruce is a seasoned veteran of the restaurant trade and has honed his craft in places such as The Old Course Hotel and as a chef for Lehman Brothers. Intense flavours, technical dexterity and attention to detail are all here; quail arrives meltingly tender having languished sous-vide in a water bath. A main of pork fillet stuffed with black pudding comes as neat discs alongside pommes dauphinoise and red cabbage. These and the signature twice-baked cheddar soufflé are menu stalwarts that regulars return for. Bruce has a keen instinct for what his customers want and is careful not to stray from this conservative path. Necessarily, with a two-person operation, things are run as a tight ship. When warned not to 'just turn up just expecting a seat' take heed, oh, and they don’t like tardiness either. So book in advance, arrive on time and you can expect a warm welcome.

• High point: Carefully crafted dishes made with excellent ingredients
• Low point: The domestic setting won’t be to everyone’s taste

Listed in The Larder – in the shops now or buy online.

New(ish) Michelin star in tow, Bruce Sangster runs a solo show in the kitchen while wife Jackie takes care of front of house. With just 26 covers in the front room of a terraced property the atmosphere is certainly not ostentatious; the food, however, is far from home cooking. Intense flavours, technical dexterity and attention to detail are all here; quail arrives meltingly tender having languished sous-vide in a water bath, while pork fillet stuffed with black pudding comes as neat discs alongside pommes dauphinoise and red cabbage. Booking essential.