The Inn at Lathones

The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 is now in the shops. This review is taken from the 2007 edition.

The Inn at Lathones is the type of place you could easily miss when driving to the East Neuk from St Andrews. Resembling a country pub from the outside and an 80s throwback inside, the restaurant's dated décor and front-room feel belie a true gastronomical find, epitomised by returning chef Marc Guibert's delicious salmon, gherkin and spring onion appetiser. Pigeon, cod and scallops then vie for your hors d'oeuvres selection, or should it be the pan-fried wild mushrooms beautifully complemented by a parmesan and rocket emulsion? The main courses encompass Scottish, French, Italian and Japanese styles - the smoked salmon sushi with a tempura of langoustine, for example, is bristling with flavours. For those who can't decide, the trilogy menu includes a selection of succulent starters, a trinity of tasty meats (Angus beef, oxtail sausage and ale stew) and a refreshing blood orange emulsion with pink grapefruit jelly for dessert. Steepish prices and the occasional slip in service knock small dents in the overall impression of quality carried by the food, its skilful preparation and the Inn's impressive wine list.

• High point: Delightful cuisine with wonderful flavours
• Low point: Forgetful service