Gandhi's

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

Tucked away behind Lothian Road, Gandhi's might be small, but there's no shortage of ambition in this hidden gem. Though the dining space is long and narrow, the clean, modern décor, stylish pale wood furniture and tasteful lighting create an ambience that is intimate and welcoming rather than claustrophobic. This lightness of touch extends to the menu, which focuses on freshness, fragrance and delicacy. Tandoori chicken niblets are subtly spiced, but you'll need the refreshing side salad to offset the searing chilli heat of the sheek kebab. For mains, in addition to Anglo-Indian favourites such as korma and vindaloo, an array of enticing house specialties demonstrates the kitchen's skill and imagination. An intriguing lamb's liver biran bhoona teams rich, tender liver with a flavoursome sauce of tomatoes, onions and bay, which begs to be mopped up by a thin, chewy garlic naan. Tandoori raj chingree offers enormous king prawns marinated in yoghurt and lemon, baked to a delicious softness with smoky char-grilled peppers. It's a shame that the disappointing bought-in desserts don't match the sumptuous mains, but with efficient, courteous staff and a well-chosen, reasonably priced wine list, Gandhi's succeeds in its aim of providing a contemporary, classy Indian dining experience.

• High point: Fresh, contemporary feel in both food and surroundings
• Low point: Desserts are a let-down after the sumptuous main event