The Grouse and Claret Restaurant

This review appears in the The List's Eating & Drinking Guide 2008 – in the shops now or buy online.

David and Vicki Fu Tong's tranquil 16-year-old country retreat with restaurant, rooms, gardens and small art gallery is just minutes from the M90 but enjoys a pastoral atmosphere with views over fishing lochans and meadows to the Lomond and Ochil Hills. Diners relax into generously plump sofas for drinks and to order from changing menus which feature attractive, unfussy presentations of local produce with some Asian touches. Starters are notable for being invitingly light; perhaps a smoked halibut carpaccio, tian of fresh crab or warm Thai beef salad with sesame oil and seeds. Mains range across the conventional (peppered sirloin steak or magret of duck), the more exotic (stir-fry of prawns and scallops, oyster sauce, stir-fried vegetables) and local specials – don't miss the perfectly roasted crown of Perthshire wild pigeon with wild mushroom sauce. There's a selection of chocolatey and other puds, and coffee and a digestif back in the sitting room round things off most pleasurably. In fact, the dining room itself might be better maintaining the successful, laid-back, 'shabby chic' feel of this area, although service is friendly and efficient throughout. Ask about occasional Oriental, jazz and theatre dinners – clearly the serene yet accessible location appeals to a wide range of visitors.

• High point: Generously friendly hosts
• Low point: Less than unctuous hollandaise